<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">
    <title>It&apos;s All About the Food</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/" />
    <link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/atom.xml" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2009-10-21:/itsAllAboutTheFood/1</id>
    <updated>2017-12-17T18:46:15Z</updated>
    <subtitle>This is where I write about food, foodstuffs, equipment, meals, restaurants, food politics. Because it&apos;s all about the food.</subtitle>
    <generator uri="http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/">Movable Type Pro 4.32-en</generator>

<entry>
    <title>Festive festivities under 20 dollars and 20 minutes</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2017/12/festive-festivities-under-20-d.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2017:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.100</id>

    <published>2017-12-17T18:46:15Z</published>
    <updated>2017-12-17T19:40:22Z</updated>

    <summary>At the holidays, my instinct is always to go full Martha: every room decorated with its own theme; every beloved cookie, bread and cake baked, along with a handful of new recipes; host one big party for friends, and host...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>At the holidays, my instinct is always to go full Martha: every room decorated with its own theme; every beloved cookie, bread and cake baked, along with a handful of new recipes; host one big party for friends, and host Christmas Eve for family; mail homemade and hand-written cards; on top of attending rounds of parties and events.</p>

<p>You can see why some years haven't had the comforting glow of holiday cheer promised by the glossy magazines.</p>

<p><strong>Enlightenment struck when we hosted the monthly poker game at the beginning of December</strong>: plan the party as normal, and <strong>add one easy and fast holiday item</strong>. For poker night this meant a big batch of chili (30 minutes prep then it sits on the stove) with rice and cornbread, spice cake (baked and frozen weeks before) with cream cheese frosting, and whatever the gang brings. They've played poker for so long everyone brings the same thing: Good's potato chips from Lancaster, baba ganoush and hummus from a shop in West Philly.</p>

<p>I made alcohol-free <a href="/eggnog1.html">cooked eggnog</a> and let everyone add their favorite spirit (bourbon, rum, or brandy). It takes about 20 minutes for a single batch, and is much richer and tastier than store-bought. Friends who'd never had home-made immediately swore off store-bought. (The twelve-year-old wouldn't try it and has had store-bought for breakfast every morning the last two weeks.)</p>

<p>Remember that Martha has staff and a fortune and can do (or have done) 50 holiday-themed niceties for any party. For the rest of us with limited time and budgets, here are some things under $20 that take under 20 minutes to turn a get-together into a holiday party:</p>

<p><strong>A champagne toast</strong>: Even here in state-controlled Pennsylvania you can find nice bubblies under $20. I <em>like</em> Freixenet. Pour everyone a glass as they arrive or serve with dinner or dessert.</p>

<p><img src="/images/Heisser_bischof_oranges.jpg" class="photo" alt="[Oranges and stick cinnamon steeping in wine; copyright 2015, Susan J. Talbutt, all rights reserved]" /></p>

<p><strong>Mulled wine and cider</strong>: Either <a href="/gluehwein.html">red</a> or <a href="/heisser_bischof.html">white</a> wine. Under no circumstances should you use nice wine for mulled wine; the spices will overwhelm it. <a href="/mulled_cider.html">Cider</a> is a nice non-alcoholic option that the drinkers can add some dark rum or sherry. Any of these options takes five to ten minutes to set up, and then sits covered until ready to serve. As a bonus, your home will smell delicious.</p>

<p><strong>Egg nog</strong>: <a href="/eggnog1.html">Homemade nog</a> pushes the 20-minute limit, unless you feel confident with <a href="/eggnog2.html">nog from raw eggs</a>, or you can buy from the grocery store, add bourbon or rum, and top with whipped cream and grated nutmeg.</p>

<p><strong>Napkins</strong>: Check out the party and big box stores for holiday-themed napkins or even solid red and green, or gold and silver. The great thing is if you buy one or two giant packs, you'll have napkins for holidays to come.</p>

<p><strong>Candles</strong>: Something about mid-Winter holidays calls for candlelight, thick pillars in colors or metallics, tea-lights in votive holders, menorahs, and Advent wreathes. Make a centerpiece on the table or scatter everywhere. Just don't leave them unattended.</p>

<p><img src="/images/AdventCandlesLg.jpg" class="photo" alt="[Variety of candles lit for Advent; copyright 2005, Susan J. Talbutt, all rights reserved]" /></p>

<p><strong>Cookie plate or holiday breads</strong>: If the cookies or breads are already baked, bring them out! This does not mean spend hours baking, but if you've got it, share it!</p>

<p><strong>Hot cocoa</strong>: <a href="/advent2017/13.html">Homemade cocoa</a> is pretty easy and can be fixed up in so many ways. A hot cocoa "bar" is easy to assemble with marshmallows, short candy canes, whipped cream, and some liqueurs (or not) for the drinkers. Make a quart or more and hold it warm in a coffee carafe.</p>

<p><strong>Signature dessert</strong>: If you have a signature dessert, make it when you have time and freeze, then defrost when you need it. The big family party always has <a href="/chocolate_roll.html">chocolate roll</a> and <a href="/hazelnut_torte.html">hazelnut torte</a>, always baked ahead and frozen, and sometimes still a bit icy when served.</p>

<p>The important thing is that you need do only one thing to make a gathering feel festive, and that thing doesn't need to take hours from your day or most of your budget.</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Keep white supremacists out of our government</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2016/11/keep-white-supremacists-out-of.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2016:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.99</id>

    <published>2016-11-22T01:35:22Z</published>
    <updated>2016-11-22T22:44:17Z</updated>

    <summary>Letter I e-mailed to my senators and representative tonight. If you&apos;re just here for the cookies, sorry, I will not sit silently. I am a lifelong Pennsylvania resident and a voter in Wyncote, 19095. My mother&apos;s parents came to this...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p><em>Letter I e-mailed to my senators and representative tonight. If you're just here for the cookies, sorry, I will not sit silently.</em></p>

<p>I am a lifelong Pennsylvania resident and a voter in Wyncote, 19095. My mother's parents came to this country in the 1920s from the Stuttgart region of Germany, and became naturalized citizens by the 1930s. They both left large families of sisters, brothers and cousins behind in Germany, families we still see regularly. I have often wondered how my great aunts and uncles could live through and fight and die for the Third Reich as if rounding up their fellow citizens were normal, just as I have wondered how my parents' generation could watch the Civil Rights Movement on television and not feel compelled to some action.</p>

<p>Clearly, when the challenge came, I told myself, I would be different.</p>

<p>And so I say: <strong>NOT IN MY NAME</strong>.</p>

<p>I will not pretend it is normal or acceptable for the president to accept white supremacist supporters and appoint white supremacists like Stephen Bannon to the government. I will not give them the comfortable name of "alt-right"; they are neo-Nazis, short and simple.</p>

<p>It is not acceptable to register Muslims like we did the Japanese during World War II. It is not acceptable to apply a religious test to anyone seeking a life here. The First Amendment protects expression of all religions, no matter our own personal prejudices.</p>

<p>In 20 or 30 years when history writes the Trump presidency as one of the darkest periods of American history, I want to know I was on the right side of history, doing everything I could to protect my fellow people -- citizen or not, here or abroad. I hope I can say my elected representatives will be standing there with me.</p>

<p>Thank you,<br />
Susan J. Talbutt</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Gingerbread K-9 for LI Who</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2016/11/gingerbread-k-9-for-li-who.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2016:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.98</id>

    <published>2016-11-13T00:14:48Z</published>
    <updated>2016-11-13T00:27:46Z</updated>

    <summary>The recipe: Renate&apos;s Pfefferkuchen Attending the Long Island Doctor Who convention in mid-November has been our family vacation since it&apos;s first convening in 2013. We&apos;ve watched it expand from not quite two days of discussions and interviews in three tracks...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p><strong>The recipe</strong>: <a href="/pfefferkuchen.html">Renate's Pfefferkuchen</a></p>

<p>Attending the <a href="http://www.longislanddoctorwho.com/">Long Island Doctor Who convention</a> in mid-November has been our family vacation since it's first convening in 2013. We've watched it expand from not quite two days of discussions and interviews in three tracks to nearly three days in five tracks. When organizers asked for volunteers for a long list of fan panels, I jumped at the chance to discuss "Cooking as an Expression of Fandom" and offered to bake and assemble a gingerbread version of K-9, the iconic robot dog from the original series with occasional appearances in the new.</p>

<p>Currently, you can see the photos of <a href="http://www.mobypicture.com/user/ChristmasBaking/">baking, assembling, reassmbling, and final assembly</a> on my Mobypic account.</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Spring brunch for six to eight</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2016/05/spring-brunch-for-six-to-eight.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2016:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.97</id>

    <published>2016-05-30T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2016-05-30T01:31:46Z</updated>

    <summary>That first brunch of late spring and early summer somehow tastes better than any other meal of the season. This year my sister and stepmother joined us just as the weather went from a lovely preview of summer to a...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>That first brunch of late spring and early summer somehow tastes better than any other meal of the season. This year my sister and stepmother joined us just as the weather went from a lovely preview of summer to a flashback to early spring.</p>

<h2>Menu</h2>

<div class="menu">

<p>Mimosas<br />
Orange juice<br />
Coffee<br />
Tea</p>

<p>Fruit and cheese plate</p>

<p><a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/318340/asparagus-gruyere-tart">Asparagus and Gruyere tart</a><br />
<a href="/scones.html">Lemon-ginger scones</a><br />
<a href="#grits">Roasted pepper grits</a><br />
<a href="#eggs">Jorj's scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and cream cheese<br />
</a></div></p>

<p>The menu has everything I look for in a brunch: something baked, fruit, a vegetable &mdash; preferably asparagus, a protein, caffeinated drinks, and bubbly. It feels a bit fancy, but is not stressful to prepare.</p>

<p>Mimosas are the preferred brunch drink here because I prefer both OJ and bubbly to tomato juice and vodka; finishing the bubble while washing dishes my time-honored wind-down after everyone has left.. The asparagus tart recipe shows up on every spring brunch menu I make. It's easy to assemble, looks elegant, it gets a vegetable onto the menu, and can be serve warm or room temperature, as finger food or eaten with a knife and fork. The scones are the same ones I make for weekend breakfasts. For Philly, grits are a bit "exotic," like scrapple might be elsewhere in the country.</p>

<h2>Day or night before</h2>

<p>Always prep as much as you can the day or night before.</p>

<p><strong>For the grits:</strong> pre-measure the cup of grits and three cups of water.</p>

<p><strong>Roast the peppers:</strong> Set the oven to broil. Cut each pepper into thirds from top to bottom so that the sides are fairly flat. Remove stem and seed. Tear off a piece of tinfoil wider than the pepper pieces laid out side to side with enough on either side to fold up. Lay the foil on a baking sheet and the peppers in the foil and slide under the broiler. I usually need to get the peppers right under the broiler until they are touching or nearly so. Broil for five minutes.</p>

<p>Prep the remaining peppers so that you can quickly rotate them into and out of the oven.</p>

<p>After broiling for five minutes, the entire skin should be blackened. Fold the foil over the peppers and create an air tight seal so that the peppers can steam for another ten minutes.</p>

<p>Open the foil, peel off the blackened skin. Store in an airtight container.</p>

<p><strong>Scones:</strong> Honestly, I'd hoped to bake them the night before, but ... do you really want to hear about my health problems? No? I don't either.</p>

<p>Mix the dry ingredients. Mix the wet ingredients in a small bowl that you can seal. Chop the ginger, keep separate. This is a good stopping point, especially if your butter is frozen, or you can cut in the butter, mix everthing in, roll out and cut the scones, place onto a baking sheet and pop into the fridge until the next day.</p>

<p><strong>Asparagus tart:</strong> It's served at room temperature and can be baked ahead and covered, but it really can't be pre-assembled like the scones. You can grate the cheese and cut the woody stems off the asparagus. In the linked recipe Martha is peeling her asparagus, and it's very nice that she (or her staff) has the time for that. No peeling in this house.</p>

<p><strong>Eggs:</strong> Make sure the salmon is defrosted. Cut salmon into bite-sized pieces. Snip the chives that grow organically in your front garden because nothing bothers the dang things.</p>

<p><strong>Other:</strong> The usual, set the table, get out the serving dishes, put out some candles. Fill the coffee maker and the tea kettle. Put the bubbly in the fridge.</p>

<h2>The day of</h2>

<p>Always make a schedule, broken down into 10 or 15-minute intervals. What needs to happen next? Look! There it is! Include any cleaning you might need to do. For big events like Thanksgiving, we will have a schedule for every teen or adult in the house. Total the cooking times (the tart has two!), (over)estimate the remaining prep times, and then work back from the guests' arrival time.</p>

<p>My schedule for everyone arriving at 1:</p>

<table>
<tr><td class="time">9:00</td><td class="action">Clean house like mad people because it's too cold to be outside and you mowed the lawn instead of cleaning.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">11:30</td><td class="action">Preheat oven to 400F for tart, pulse peppers in the food processor</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">11:45</td><td class="action">Roll out puff pastry and pre-bake 15 mins</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:00</td><td class="action">Assemble tart and bake 25 mins</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:15</td><td class="action">Fry garlic for grits</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:20</td><td class="action">Bring grits to a boil, reduce heat, simmer 28 minutes</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:25</td><td class="action">Tart out of the oven and onto cutting board; increase oven temp to 425F; form scones</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:40</td><td class="action">Scones into oven for 14 minutes (this is my time)</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:45</td><td class="action">Start tea and coffee, put butter on table to soften get out OJ and bubbly</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:50</td><td class="action">Grits off the stove, stir in chopped peppers</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">12:55</td><td class="action">Scones out of the oven, into basket</td></tr>
<tr><td class="time">1:00</td><td class="action">Jorj starts eggs, everything onto the table</td></tr>
</table>

<h2>Recipes</h2>

<h3><a name="grits"></a>Roasted pepper grits</h3>

<p>2 red or yellow peppers, roasted<br />
2 Tbs oil or butter<br />
1 clove garlic<br />
1 c grits<br />
3 c water<br />
3/4 tsp salt<br />
ground pepper</p>

<p>Roast peppers (see above). Pulse in food processor until mostly pureed, but some pepper pieces remain.</p>

<p>In a 2-quart saucepot, heat oil over medium high heat. Saute garlic until golden and fragrant, no more than a minute.</p>

<p>Pour in water, salt and grits. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook 28 minutes.</p>

<p>Remove from heat, stir in roasted pepper puree. Adjust seasoning.</p>

<p>If you want creamy grits, add butter.</p>

<h3><a name="eggs"></a>Jorj's scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, cream cheese and chives</h3>

<p>1 dozen eggs<br />
6 ounces smoked salmon<br />
4 ounce cream cheese<br />
snipped chives<br />
salt and pepper to taste</p>

<p>Cut salmon into bite-sized pieces. Cut cream cheese into 16 cubes.</p>

<p>For this many eggs, a 12" frying pan is best. Bring the pan to heat over medium high heat. If the pan is still cold at the edges, this won't work. Add two tablespoons butter or oil; swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Pour in eggs, stir. Add cream cheese cubes, stir. Add salmon pieces, stir. Add chives and pepper to taste, stir. Continue stirring until eggs are still a bit runny (not much!) and transer into a serving bowl. Overall this should take about five minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust. Sprinkle with a bit more chive on top. Eggs will continue to firm up.<br />
</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Meringues</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2016/04/meringues.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2016:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.96</id>

    <published>2016-04-23T00:22:11Z</published>
    <updated>2016-04-23T01:28:06Z</updated>

    <summary>Ahh, the meringue. Gluten and dairy free without having to substitute ingredients. Dead simple once you&apos;ve mastered slowly adding sugar to egg whites while beating on high speed. You can bake in a super low oven for 25 minutes or...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>Ahh, the meringue. Gluten and dairy free without having to substitute ingredients. Dead simple once you've mastered slowly adding sugar to egg whites while beating on high speed. You can bake in a super low oven for 25 minutes or a low oven for 20 minutes or turn the oven off and take the cookies out the next morning. It's possible the overnight baking method will not be acceptable to any children in your household.</p>

<p><img src="/images/Meringue.png" class="photo" alt="[A variety of meringue cookies; copyright 2016, Susan J. Talbutt, all rights reserved]" /></p>

<h2>Basic meringue</h2>

<p>Preheat your oven to 275 to 325 degrees.</p>

<p>Meringue is a ratio of sugar and egg whites. For <strong>1 egg white, 1/4 to 1/3 c of sugar</strong> (50 to 67 g). I like to add 1/8 tsp of cream of tarter to make the proteins a bit more springy. You can also add a pinch of salt, or 1/4 tsp of vanilla.</p>

<p>Separate the eggs. Gently crack the equator or midriff of the egg with a butter knife or against the rim of a teacup. Pull the shell into two hemispherical halves, and allow the white to drip into the cup, while keeping the yolk in one half. Pass the yolk to the other half. Pass back to the first half if there is still a lot of white clinging to the yolk. Stop passing if the yolk looks like it's about the break! Drop the yolk into a small, freezable plastic container. Pour the white from the cup into the large mixing bowl you'll be beating the whites in. If the yolk does break and drip into the white, drop the remaining yolk into the cup with already contaminated white, and pour into an empty, small, freezable container; use the yolk for pancakes or scones the next morning. When you are done, label the small containers and freeze immediately.</p>

<p>Start the mixer on low speed. Add the cream of tartar if using. As the whites start to foam, increase the mixer speed to medium for a minute or two, then to medium high or high. The more whites you are whipping, the lower the top mixer speed so as not to strain the motor. When the whites are firm, add a tablespoon or two of sugar while continuing to beat the whites, and then wait. Put the yolks into the freezer, wipe down the counters, load the dishwasher, something to kill about 30 seconds. Or more. The point is not to rush. Add a bit more sugar. Distract yourself again; meringues are great for getting the kitchen cleaned while working. Continue adding sugar and whipping with a noticeable break before adding more sugar. When all the sugar is added, the whites should be glossy but not dry.</p>

<p>Line baking sheets with parchment paper, or Silpat or similar liners. You can drop the batter from a spoon to form a kiss shape, or use a pastry bag and star tip to pipe fancy shapes.</p>

<p>Bake until the meringe has dried out. For small cookies at 275 degrees, this can be 25 to 30 minutes; at 325 degrees it will take 15 to 20 minutes. Larger shapes will take longer to bake. I like my meringues crisp and dry, not chewy.</p>

<h2>Macaroon</h2>

<p>Yes, yes, the hot cookie now is the one-oh French macaron, made with almond flour, and everyone disses "grandmom's" coconut macaroons as being, what, stodgy? Well, let me tell you, macaroons were cool once and they'll be cool again, once the they get designated as "retro."</p>

<p>Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Use 8 ounces of shredded coconut, preferably unsweetened, and 1 cup of sugar for 3 eggs. Break up any clumps in the coconut and fold in. Drop onto a cookie sheet into mounds about 1 inch in diameter, at least 1/2 inch apart. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until just turning light golden brown on top. I like my macaroons crisp rather than chewy. <a href="/macaroons.html">Full recipe</a>.</p>

<h2>Forgotten cookies</h2>

<p>My childhood favorite! As my best friend Donna said, how could you forget about these? The name comes from the baking directions: pop into the oven, turn it off, and forget about the cookies until morning. Unfortunately, if the oven cools too quickly, the cookies come out gummy. But delicious!</p>

<p>Two egg whites, 2/3 c sugar, once the whites are glossy fold in 6 ounces (half a bag) of chocolate chips. Just double the recipe so that you can use the whole bag. Drop from a spoon to make a kiss shape. Pop into a preheated 375 degree oven, turn off after five minutes, go to bed. <a href="/forgotten.html">Full recipe</a>.</p>

<h2>Wespennester</h2>

<p>Wasps' nests. Who in their right mind names a cookie for a very nasty household pest? I put a pitchfork into a (very small) wasps' nest and the wasps were not pleased.</p>

<p>For 3 whites and 1 1/4 cup of sugar, fold in 4 1/2 ounces of ground unsweetened (or bittersweet) chocolate and 9 ounces of almonds coarsely chopped or slivered. Drop into mounds about 1 to 1 1/2 inches across; they will be misshapen blobs that look like paper wasps nests. Bake at 275 degrees for 25 minutes. <a href="/wespennester_a.html">Full recipe</a>.</p>

<h2>Busserl</h2>

<p>Bavarian kisses! We've had a lot of fun adding cinnamon (1 tsp), cayenne (1/4 tsp), cloves (1/4 tsp) and other spices along with the cocoa.</p>

<p>For 2 whites and 1/2 cup of sugar, fold in 2 ounces ground unsweetened (or bittersweet) chocolate, 1 tablespoon cocoa (Dutched or natural) and any of the spices listed above (or not). Bake 25 to 30 minutes in a 275 degree oven. <a href="/busserl_a.html">Full recipe</a>.</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Champers countdown for New Years</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2015/12/champers-countdown-for-new-yea.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2015:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.95</id>

    <published>2015-12-26T21:01:44Z</published>
    <updated>2017-12-25T16:53:01Z</updated>

    <summary>As traditional as Champagne is traditional for New Year&apos;s, it&apos;s nice to mix it up now and then with a few champers-based cocktails. My favorite affordable bubbly is Chandon Blanc de Noir, a Napa Valley California sparkling wine made by...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>As traditional as Champagne is traditional for New Year's, it's nice to mix it up now and then with a few champers-based cocktails. My favorite affordable bubbly is Chandon Blanc de Noir, a Napa Valley California sparkling wine made by the French house Moet et Chandon.</p>

<p><img src="/images/ChampersNYE.jpg" class="photo" alt="[Copyright 2015 Jorj Bauer, Marsha Wirtel, all rights reserved]" style="display: block; margin: auto; width: 75%" /></p>

<ol class="countdown" style="counter-reset:start-from 11">
	<li><a href="/advent2015/03.html">Kir Royale</a>: This classic was my first champagne cocktail, and remains a favorite. Creme de cassis, bubbles.</li>
	<li><a href="/advent2015/12.html">Kathleen</a>: Limoncello and bubbles. Very refreshing.</li>
	<li>Elderflower: A bit of Elderflower syrup topped by bubbles. Have you noticed a theme here?</li>
	<li><a href="/champagne_aperol.html">Aperol Sprizz</a>: Aperol and then bubbles on top. If you prefer a drier champagne, this will balance any sweetness.</li>
	<li>Champagne cocktail: Drop a cube of sugar at the bottom a flute, drop with Angostura bitters, top with bubbles, stir to dissolve sugar.</li>
	<li><a href="/advent2017/11.htmll">Poinsettia</a>: Could also be made into a punch! Shake 1/2 oz of Cointreau with 1 1/2 ounces cranberry juice cocktail; pour into flute and top with bubbly</li>
	<li><a href="/advent2017/18.html">Black Velvet</a>: Stout beer and bubbles.</li>
	<li><a href="/advent2017/03.html">Jade</a>: From my friend Jack Persico. Shake 1/4 oz blue curacao, 1/4 oz Midori, 1/4 oz lime juice, dash of Angostura bitters over ice. Pour into flute, then top with bubbles.</li>
	<li><a href="http://www.drinkoftheweek.com/drink_recipes/chicago-cocktail/">Chicago cocktail</a>: Brandy, triple sec, bitters, bubbles.</li>
	<li><a href="/advent2015/16.html">French 75</a>: This is our current house favorite and what I'll serve this New Year's Eve. It's is slightly more complex: gin, lemon, sugar syrup, shake with ice, then bubbles on top.</li>
</ol>

<div class="cursive large">Happy New Year!</div>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>N things about me</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2015/10/n-things-about-me.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2015:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.94</id>

    <published>2015-10-20T05:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2015-09-20T13:50:05Z</updated>

    <summary>Professionally, I am a database-backed web site developer, not a baker. I have a degree in math. This is unrealated to my ability to multiply metric conversions in my head; that comes from having to calculate sales tax on my...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>Professionally, I am a database-backed web site developer, not a baker.</p>

<p>I have a degree in math.</p>

<p>This is unrealated to my ability to multiply metric conversions in my head; that comes from having to calculate sales tax on my book purchases as a pre-teen.</p>

<p>My soft serve cone has jimmies on it; worder comes from a fawcet; Kandy Kakes and Krimpets are delicious; 55 is only a suggestion for the Sure-kill aka the Expressway. In short, I'm a Philadelphian.</p>

<p>I hate to cook.</p>

<p>I'm not thrilled with Thanksgiving, either.</p>

<p>Christmas has been my favorite holiday since childhood; I wrote my Confirmation Class term paper on it.</p>

<p>Valentine's Day is least favorite. Those expectations will mess you up for life.</p>

<p>I am a massive nerd. I've been a Dr. Who fan since my mother turned it on when I was nine, and now I go to conventions and <a href="http://www.mobypicture.com/user/suthecoder/view/14802018">cosplay (that's me in L.A. dressed as Sarah Jane Smith)</a>. I game. On line.</p>

<p>When I lived in Germany, I learned to drive a manual transmission, and much prefer it over an automatic.</p>

<p>Since 2008, I've had my motorcycle license. I ride a 125 cc scooter.</p>

<p>I also bike.</p>

<p>Other drivers make me very, very nervous.</p>

<p>Favorite way to kick it up? Crystal Hot Sauce.</p>

<p>Favorite way to spice it up? <a href="/hot_cross_buns.html">cardamom</a>.</p>

<p>Favorite nut: my wacky family.</p>

<p>Favorite nut, non-family, actually edible: hazelnuts, in <a href="/haselnussbroetchen.html">cookies</a> and <a href="/hazelnut_torte.html">cakes</a>.</p>

<p>Least favorite nut: I try not to discuss fringe politics.</p>

<p>Least favorite nut, edible: walnuts. For years I thought I hated nuts. No, I just hate this bitter, nasty thing.</p>

<p>Chocolate, vanilla or strawberry? <a href="/chocolate_roll.html">Chocolate</a>, <a href="/chocolate_almond_cherry_cake.html">chocolate</a>, <a href="/forgotten.html">chocolate</a>.</p>

<p>Tone deaf. This physically pains my husband, who had perfect pitch before he listened to all that metal in high school.</p>

<p>I do 99 percent the work on the website.</p>

<p>I rarely drink soda, but when I do, it's San Pellegrino Chinotto, which tastes like sweeter, non-alcoholic Campari.</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>How to make Rinderrouladen</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2015/09/how-to-make-rouladen-1.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2015:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.93</id>

    <published>2015-09-20T13:36:20Z</published>
    <updated>2015-09-20T13:44:14Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[On the day your son is pre-testing for his junior black belt, stop by Rieker's in Fox Chase for some Langj&auml;ger, one of his favorite snacks. (He won't actually eat the snacks, but you'll feel better, knowing you did all...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>On the day your son is pre-testing for his junior black belt, stop by <a href="http://www.riekersmeats.com/">Rieker's in Fox Chase</a> for some Langj&auml;ger, one of his favorite snacks. (He won't actually <i>eat</i> the snacks, but you'll feel better, knowing you did all you could and put every kind of snack he likes in his bag.) While you are there, also get some sausages, cold cuts, ham salad &hellip; chocolates &hellip; two brands of chocolates &hellip; is that the October issue of <i>Tina: Kochen &amp; Backen</i>? And notice the pre-made Rinderrouladen, which you remember from childhood and still have no idea how to make. Buy two.</p>

<p>There! That's dinner sorted.</p>

<p>Drop kid off at karate school for three hours of testing. Dead head some flowers. Housework. Get kid ("I put Mr. Luis in a headlock!"). More housework. Drink a beer with husband on the patio in the cooling September afternoon. While husband returns to the photography mines, er, darkroom, in the basement laundry area, consider cooking those Roladen for dinner. Read Twitter.</p>

<p>Get Rouladen out of fridge. Stare at them. Remember you bought them because your grandmother never taught you how, and you have no idea how to cook them, let alone assemble them. Stare some more.</p>

<p>Get out the ceramic-coated, cast iron small Dutch oven usually used to bake bread. Add <b>a tablespoon or two of oil</b>, and heat over high heat. Quickly brown the rouladen on each side. Wonder how to make a sauce. Sauce is not your thing. Cooking is not your thing. Cooking without a recipe is <i>really</i> not your thing.</p>

<p>Remember the crappy Riesling in fridge that you can't bear to finish drinking because it is that crappy, and, oh God, what will you do with the second double bottle but never mind, let's try a splash, <b>about a quarter to a half cup of wine</b> into the pot. Reduce heat to medium and <b>braise for half an hour or more</b> until the Rouladen are cooked through. Traditionally, Rinderrouladen include uncooked bacon, so be sure they get to 140 or 150 degrees, unless you want soggy bacon.</p>

<p>Remove Rouladen to a plate. Consider a sauce. Reconsider your dinner choices, if not your life choices. Stare at the pot of wine and juices.</p>

<p>Add about <b>1 teaspoon of mustard and 2 Tablespoons of sour cream</b> to the pot. Whisk in. Shake in some <b>flour or other thickener</b>. Turn heat to high, and whisk until sauce combines.</p>

<p>Do not worry about salt, Rieker's has done an excellent job of pre salting. Serve with Kn&ouml;del, Sp&auml;tzle, noodles or potatoes. And the crappy Riesling</p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>How to bake Krautkuchen for your daughter</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/10/how-to-bake-krautkuchen-for-yo.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.91</id>

    <published>2014-10-12T16:24:20Z</published>
    <updated>2014-10-12T19:46:21Z</updated>

    <summary>... Who is not actually the daughter of your blood, but the daughter of your heart, so of course you will make Krautkuchen for her and her love on their last night before they travel to New York City, and...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>... Who is not actually the daughter of your blood, but <a href="http://sparklingcrane.wordpress.com/">the daughter of your heart</a>, so of course you will make Krautkuchen for her and her love on their last night before they travel to New York City, and then back to Germany.</p>

<p>First, when she tells you the morning after she arrives that she wants to bake and eat Krautkuchen (and <a href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/zwetschgenkuchen_a.html">Zwetschgenkuchen</a>, chili, and other house specialties), you remember that your aunt (who makes the best Krautkuchen you have ever eaten, and whose recipe you will be using) uses Schmalz from Speck to fry her Kraut. Although your daughter is practically vegetarian, she does still eat meat. When you make breakfast (buckwheat pancakes with bananas or blueberries, with bacon on the side), cook the bacon the only way your daughter likes bacon: in the oven like your other aunt (200C, on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet, 15 to 20 minutes) so that you can save the half cup of fat that will render from a pound of bacon.</p>

<p>Next, when you have returned from the new chocolate exhibit at <a href="http://www.ansp.org/">the Academy of Natural Sciences</a>, suggest drinking hot cocoa while the dough for the crust rises.</p>

<p>Now you need to make the dough.</p>

<p>Consider using your translation of the Salzteig recipe, throw out that idea, and work from the original German recipe. A double or single batch? Double, because it freezes well, and then it's ready for the next time you make Krautkuchen.</p>

<p>Realize that while the amount of flour is doubled four a double batch, the other measurements aren't, and that you are not quite sure if they should be. Decide to use the larger measure of all ingredients and fiddle until the dough feels right. The dough's never really seemed right before, so what's to be lost?</p>

<p>Measure<strong> 500 grams flour</strong>, <strong>375 mL milk</strong>, <strong>2 1/4 tsp. of dry yeast (one package)</strong>, and <strong>1 tsp. of sugar</strong>. The yeast measurement is a complete guess, because in Germany everyone uses fresh yeast, and your aunt used 40g of it. Make a well in the flour. Heat the milk to 40C (1 minute in the microwave on high), pour in the milk, add the yeast and sugar, and stir until a the yeast, sugar, and a bit of the flour have made a very thin batter. Leave this Vorteig to rise for 30 minutes in a warm place.</p>

<p>Make and drink <a href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/hot_cocoa.html">hot cocoa</a>.</p>

<p>Re-read recipe to discover you shouldn't have used all the milk in the sponge. Check sponge, conclude the yeast is happy. If the yeast is happy, you are happy.</p>

<p>Add <strong>6 Tbs of canola oil</strong> (the recipe calls for three to four, but, hey, that could be for the half recipe) and <strong>1 tsp of salt</strong> (your aunt wrote an Essl&ouml;ffel, a tablespoon, but that can't be right). Turn on the mixer, and combine everything using the kneading hook of the mixer into a, well, honestly, a rather gloppy dough. Throw in another 50g or so of flour to make it less gloppy and actually come together. Cover, and sit on the oven, which you begin heating to 200C. Set a timer for 30 minutes.</p>

<p>Dice <strong>one white or yellow onion</strong>, and start frying it over medium heat in about <strong>3 Tbs of the bacon fat</strong> you saved from breakfast last week. Shred finely half a small head of white cabbage. Eye it critically, shred another quarter of the cabbage. This should give you enough <strong>shredded cabbage to nearly fill a 3L bowl</strong>. When the onion is translucent and starts smelling like fried onions, add another <strong>tablespoon or two of bacon fat</strong>, then the cabbage. Stir to make sure the cabbage is coated in fat.</p>

<p>Pour a glass of wine.</p>

<p>Ask if anyone else wants a glass of wine. Your husband with the herniated disk will say he's taking a Vicodin that night. Your daughter who doesn't drink will decline, as will her love who is also not a big drinker. Consider drinking with the nine-year-old. Discard this idea. Drink the wine.</p>

<p>Keep stirring the cabbage while it cooks, and look for the other filling ingredients. Get out the old and new sour cream containers, and think it was unnecessary to buy another container. Open the old container, realize it was a good idea to get the new container, and measure out <strong>200 mL of sour cream</strong> from the new container into a large bowl. Add <strong>100 mL of heavy cream</strong>. Well, not heavy cream, because all the cream went into the biscuits that were breakfast. Use the half-and-half you bought for coffee in case your daughter's love drank coffee, but is unopened because no one drinks coffee. Add a heaping tablespoon flour. Remember that the family definition of "one tablespoon" is a heaping tablespoon, and add another for a total of about <strong>50g flour</strong>. Estimate that <strong>half a teaspoon salt</strong> and <strong>quarter teaspoon pepper</strong> is sufficient for the filling. Stir until smooth. Stir cabbage and onions.</p>

<p>Address the K&uuml;mmel issue.</p>

<p>You dislike caraway seeds, but they are traditional, and should be added "to taste," like the salt and pepper. Hunt for the caraway seeds. Find three unlabeled bottles in the spice cabinet that could be caraway. Smell them all. One is certainly celery seed. One of the other two is very licorice. The other one in an old hexagonal honey jar is undefined. Worry the licorice is the anise. Check the baking cabinet for the anise, taste to compare. Come to no conclusions. Take the mystery spices to the family. On sight, daughter declares the anise-flavored one to be fennel. Make husband taste test. Husband declares the undefined one the caraway. And stale. Ask if anyone really wants caraway in the Krautkuchen. Daughter declares it up to you. Throw away caraway seed. Sip some wine. Save hexagonal jar. Stir the cabbage.</p>

<p>When the dough has risen, dust the counter (wait, wipe it off first) with flour. Cut dough in half. Knead one dough half with a few folds into a flat disk about a hand's-breadth wide, and dust the top with flour. Remember your favorite rolling pin is still dirty from biscuits. Get out the back-up rolling pin, and congratulate yourself on keeping two of everything. Quickly roll into a large circle. Get the <strong>30cm springform</strong> pan from the cabinet. Drape the dough over it, and realize it's far too large, and thus will be too thin on the bottom. Try to get the dough to relax into a smaller shape. Fail. Stir the cabbage. Sip some wine. Decide to fold the dough back into a disk and re-roll. The dough is now too springy. Stir the cabbage. Sip some wine. Remember the other half of the dough. Re-dust the counter. Form the other half into a disk, re-roll into a smaller circle, drape into the pan. Sip some wine.</p>

<p>By now the cabbage has cooked far longer than the 10 minutes your aunt specified, has some nice brown spots, has reduced in volume, and is slightly translucent. The onions are fairly brown. Stir the cabbage into the sour-cream mixture until it is coated. Pour cabbage filling onto the crust. Fold crust edges over top of the filling, convincing yourself it looks "rustic." <strong>Bake for half an hour</strong>.</p>

<p>Sip some wine.</p>

<p>Set the table.</p>

<p>Make daughter happy.</p>

<p><img class="photo" src="/images/SarahWithKrautkuchen.jpg" alt="[My borrowed daughter, Sarah, photographing Krautkuchen, copyright Susan J. Talbutt, 2014, all rights reserved]"></p>]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Le Cordon Bleu Professional Baking and The Culinary Institute of America Baking and Pastry</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/06/le-cordon-bleu-professional-ba.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.90</id>

    <published>2014-06-09T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-03T00:42:01Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[ My final go-to volumes for basic cakes are two textbooks from Le Cordon Bleu and The Culinary Institute of America given to me by my aunt-by-marriage, food writer Anne Mendelson. Both focus on basic technique and recipes &emdash; building...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="books" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[            <p>My final go-to volumes for basic cakes are two textbooks from Le Cordon Bleu and The Culinary Institute of America given to me by my aunt-by-marriage, food writer Anne Mendelson. Both focus on basic technique and recipes &emdash; building blocks &emdash; rather than a specific dessert. Meant to be used in a retail or commercial bakery, the yields are usually triple a home recipe (six dozen cupcakes or six nine-inch cake layers). <em>Very</em> useful for wedding cakes, and other situations calling for insane amounts of cake.</p>

            <p>Interestingly enough, they don't have the same recipes. From Gisslen's book, I bake the spice cake and angel food cake. From the CIA cookbook, I bake the lemon chiffon cake, creme anglaise, German buttercream, and cream cheese icing (which is equal weights of cream cheese and butter, and less powdered sugar). I refer to both for basic research when I need a new cake or sweet yeast bread recipe; they provide me with good ideas and point me in the direction to go.</p>
 
           <p>From these basic recipes, both show how to build ever-more complex pastries up to architectural wonders.</p>

            <p>If you don't want or need six dozen cupcakes (or you need twelve dozen, or four fifteen-inch layers), <i>Professional Baking</i> has a chart of how much batter to use for any size layer. Both teach scaling (how to increase and decrease a recipe for more or fewer servings) and basic recipe ratios. The also cover most baking ingredients, from all-purpose flour through lychees, and equipment from measuring spoons through steam-injection ovens.</p>
]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Mimi Sheraton: The Bialy Eaters: The Story of a Bread and a Lost World</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/05/mimi-sheraton-the-bialy-eaters.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.89</id>

    <published>2014-05-26T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-03T00:40:23Z</updated>

    <summary> People who love food, who live to eat, who search a city or a country for the best whatever often obsess over &quot;authenticity&quot; and &quot;provenance.&quot; They will tell you the roll for a hoagie must be made with Philadelphia...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="books" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[            <p>People who love food, who live to eat, who search a city or a country for the best <i>whatever</i> often obsess over "authenticity" and "provenance." They will tell you the roll for a hoagie <em>must</em> be made with Philadelphia water, or Cheez Whiz is an acceptable cheese for a cheesesteak. For nearly a decade, following such an obsession off and on, food writer Mimi Sheraton searched the world for bialys, or <i>Bialystocker kuchen</i> as they are known in Yiddish, and almost found them.</p>

            <p>Bialys are made from a lean dough (flour, water, salt, and yeast), shaped into four-inch rounds, covered in chopped onions and, ideally, poppyseeds, with a depression &mdash; but not a hole! &mdash; in the middle. They are a variation (but distinct from) <i>pletzl</i>, which Sheraton describes as larger, without the central depression. Before World War II, they were made only in the city of Bialystock, Poland, and were eaten with or for almost every meal by the Jews there.</p>

            <p>The closest she came was in Israel, where one baker in the whole country would bake special orders of hundreds of bialys for one friend, former Bialystoker Lipa Avinadov, who shared them with Sheraton. But, as he described them, the bialys were only "95 percent like those I bought for my mother in Bialy stock when I was a child."</p>

            <p>Not surprisingly, her quest started in New York, at Kossar's Bialy Bakery, which she had already determined to have the best bialys in the five boroughs, and took her to bialy bakeries in Florida, California, Texas and Arizona. Kossar's crown remained unchallenged, especially because the bakeries outside New York were catering to  younger clientele, accustomed to toasted cinnamon bagels, who had never tasted a bialy. (Sheraton's own comment on <em>that</em>: "Toasting is as antithetical to the true spirit of the bialy as it is to the bagel, and belongs more to the aesthetics of the English muffin.")</p>

            <p>She travelled to Paris, Argentina and Bialystok itself, meeting many Bialystokers who had survived the Nazis and the anti-Semitism of pre-war Poland, or whose parents had fled before the war. All of them said the bialys they could find, often from New York, were close, but not what they had enjoyed as children in Poland.</p>

            <p><a href="http://www.powells.com/biblio/6-9780767910552-3"><i>The Bialy Eaters</i></a> is a powerful book that shows, through such a small subject, how much was lost to the world.</p>
]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>M.F.K. Fisher: How to Cook a Wolf</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/05/mfk-fisher-how-to-cook-a-wolf.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.88</id>

    <published>2014-05-12T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-03T00:28:26Z</updated>

    <summary> M.F.K. Fisher published How to Cook a Wolf in 1942, &quot;when wartime shortages were at there worst,&quot; according to the publishers&apos; note to the 1951 edition. It is as much a treatise on the fall of Europe and civilization...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="books" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[            <p>M.F.K. Fisher published <a href="http://www.powells.com/biblio/1-9780865473362-18"><i>How to Cook a Wolf</i></a> in 1942, "when wartime shortages were at there worst," according to the publishers' note to the 1951 edition. It is as much a treatise on the fall of Europe and civilization during the war as a cookbook of can-do spirit. It is my favorite of her books that I have read.</p>

            <p>Fisher writes as much of spiritual nourishment as of physical. In a later note on a daily menu proposed by an anonymous group of dieticians: "It is a shocking example of gastronomical panic, and if it were heeded would soon reduce us to malnourished as well as spiritually weakened creatures, past much harm from bursting atoms." She turns to the lessons from British housewives, learned as their country endured years of the Blitz. The comfort of (a properly blacked-out) home outweighs most danger. Don't forget the bathrooms and to account for drinkable water.</p>

            <p>Fisher writes as much of spiritual nourishment as of physical. In a later note on a daily menu proposed by an anonymous group of dieticians: "It is a shocking example of gastronomical panic, and if it were heeded would soon reduce us to malnourished as well as spiritually weakened creatures, past much harm from bursting atoms." She turns to the lessons from British housewives, learned as their country endured years of the Blitz. The comfort of (a properly blacked-out) home outweighs most danger. Don't forget the bathrooms and to account for drinkable water.</p>

            <p>The recipes try to preserve (not re-create) as much of the luxury and normalcy (its own luxury) from before the war. She devotes an entire chapter, "How to Drink to the Wolf," on drinking on a wartime budget: buying by the gallon or case, where to find good quality spirits, which spirits to fall back upon as a last resort as money grows ever tighter. Drinking is necessary for mental health: as a quick way of relaxing, and to preserving traditions from a less fearful time.</p>

            <p><i>Wolf</i> has a lesson that seems forgotten by many today: eating does not satisfy only a basic need, it is "part of the ancient religious solemnity of the Breaking of Bread, the Sharing of Salt." She wrote to comfort and advise an entire country facing privation. Joy, especially in food was as much a human necessity to Fisher as clean drinking water or sanitation. This is clearly something our society has forgotten, as we ask whether our fellow citizens <i>really deserve</i> to afford nourishing, tasty food and visits to the doctor. I think Fisher would say yes, and I do too.</p>
]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Mark Kurlansky: The Food of a Younger Land</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/04/mark-kurlansky-the-food-of-a-y.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.87</id>

    <published>2014-04-28T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-03T00:43:29Z</updated>

    <summary> During the Great Depression, the US government&apos;s Works Progress Administration, which I know best for building so many still-standing bridges in the Philly suburbs, included the Federal Writers&apos; Project to employ writers and journalists. The first writers&apos; project was...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="books" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[            <p>During the Great Depression, the US government's Works Progress Administration, which I know best for building so many still-standing bridges in the Philly suburbs, included the Federal Writers' Project to employ writers and journalists. The first writers' project was a series of unexpectedly successful guidebooks to the country and its territories. A later, uncompleted project was to chronicle the foodways of the nation.</p>

            <p>Seventy years later, food writer Mark Kurlansky found the raw manuscripts for <i>America Eats</i> in the Library of Congress. He's selected "not always the best but the most interesting pieces" for <a href="http://www.powells.com/biblio/2-9781594488658-7"><i>The Food of a Younger Land</i></a>, to give a better view of how America ate before highways and refrigeration.</p>

            <p>The introductory essay gives context to the Works Progress Administration and Federal Writers' Project, and the state of 1940s industrialization and how it influenced American eating habits and regionalism.</p>

            <p>The writing from the project has been left unedited and is a mixed bag, rather like a random collection of blog articles. There is a snippet from Zora Neale Hurston, who wrote for the Florida Writers' Project; an anonymous listing of "New York Soda-Luncheonette Jargon and Language"; an essay on Mississippi food by Eudora Welty. There are multiple regional chowders from New England, Lutefisk in Wisconson and Minnesota, possum in the South and beaver tail in the North West. My favorite might be "An Oregon Protest Against Mashed Potatoes." There are recipes, essays, and reporting on festivals and rituals.</p>
]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Shirley Corriher: Cookwise</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/04/shirley-corriher-cookwise.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.86</id>

    <published>2014-04-14T04:00:00Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-03T00:38:37Z</updated>

    <summary> Shirley Corriher first came to America&apos;s attention (and captured my baking heart) on Alton Brown&apos;s show, Good Eats. She was chipper, knowledgable and fun. She explained food chemistry so that the home cook, one who had fallen asleep once...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="books" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
        <category term="reviews" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[            <p>Shirley Corriher first came to America's attention (and captured my baking heart) on Alton Brown's show, <i>Good Eats</i>. She was chipper, knowledgable and fun. She explained food chemistry so that the home cook, one who had fallen asleep once in high school chemistry perhaps, could understand the reactions that make cooked food delicious.</p>

            <p><i><a href="http://www.powells.com/biblio/6-9780688102296-13">Cookwise</a></i> was the first book I read that really made me understand cooking. Michael Ruhlman's <i>Ratio</i> explains what works; <i>Cookwise</i> explains why it works and how changes will affect the dish.</p>

            <p>If I had to pick a favorite dish from the book, it would be the quiche, with a nice, straightforward ratio of eggs to milk, and what each part of the recipe does, along with variations.</p>

            <p>There are still so many recipes I still want to try: grated sweet potato pudding, buerre rouge, golden tomato bake and chicken with wild dried mushrooms and wine. (Really, could I just quit my job and cook?) Thus, it passes the very first test of a cookbook: does it inspire?</p>
]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>&apos;Tis better to rule the leftovers than reign the home-cooked meal</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/2014/04/tis-better-t-rule-the-leftover.html" />
    <id>tag:www.christmas-baking.com,2014:/itsAllAboutTheFood//1.85</id>

    <published>2014-04-02T00:32:50Z</published>
    <updated>2014-04-02T23:40:56Z</updated>

    <summary>When the microwave stopped working a week ago, I really believed we didn&apos;t use it very often, would not miss it, and could perhaps reclaim the counter space. (Similarly, when half a tree fell on our only car during Superstorm...</summary>
    <author>
        <name>SusieJ</name>
        <uri>http://www.christmas-baking.com</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="essays" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.christmas-baking.com/itsAllAboutTheFood/">
        <![CDATA[<p>When the microwave stopped working a week ago, I really believed we didn't use it very often, would not miss it, and could perhaps reclaim the counter space.</p>

<p>(Similarly, when half a tree fell on our only car during Superstorm Sandy, I thought, "The kid goes to school across the street and we both walk or bike to the train station. Who needs a car?" Anyone who needs groceries in the suburbs. And to go to karate lessons in the 'burbs. And doctor's appointments. And has elderly parents who live in different suburbs and have doctor's appointments. And. And. And.)</p>

<p>I don't cook with my microwave. No one cooks with their microwave. Bacon doesn't count. Heating a Hot Pocket is not cooking, and we don't even do that. The chicken nuggets go into the oven. (Well, actually, I do have a great recipe from Jean Anderson for microwave mushroom risotto that's very yummy.) The microwave does see a lot of defrosting action, but that can be mitigated with proper planning. Ignore the fact that if I could plan properly to begin with, I wouldn't be defrosting chicken breast and Italian sausage in the microwave at 5:55 each night.</p>

<p>Where the microwave has insidiously gripped the throat of my modern life with it's sticky, grippy tentacles is in reheating leftovers. Without a microwave, how would you re-heat a leftover bowl of chili and rice? Or salmon with peas and farfalle? Or half a pack of cooked breakfast sausage links? Or steamed broccoli? No wonder the cookbooks of the previous generation abounded with recipes for leftover noodles, rice, vegetables and meat.</p>

<p>So far we have:</p>

<ul>
<li>used the 8-quart metal mixing bowl as an impromptu double boiler for the salmon farfalle (the 3-quart Pyrex bowl was too good an insulator); wow, that took a long time</li>
<li>placed a plate on top of the pot of boiling water and covered my son's salmon and peas because god forbid his food should be mixed together like normal people</li>
<li>wrapped the sausage in a tin foil packet and popped it into a toaster oven</li>
<li>chili on the stove over medium heat not to burn, add or pour over cold rice</li>
<li>re-boiled the rigatoni while heating the sausage and onions over a double boiler; son said they pasta tasted like eggs (perhaps the texture)</li>
<li>stared at the broccoli and moved on (yes, quiche, sigh)</li>
</ul>

<p>We have bought a new microwave, and returned it the next day, because when we used it, the food remained cold, but the machine got a hot spot. Right now the parts are on order to fix the old microwave (not the old-old microwave, which mind you still works with one minor mechanical glitch, but that's used for photographic chemicals now).</p>

<p>Maybe I will pull out my grandmother's cookbooks.</p>

<p><strong>Microwave Risotto</strong></p>

<p>Ingredients:</p>

<ul>
<li>2 Tbsp. butter</li>
<li>2 Tbsp. olive oil</li>
<li>1 cup chopped onions</li>
<li>1 cup arborio rice</li>
<li>3 cups chicken broth</li>
<li>8 oz. sliced mushrooms</li>
<li>1/2 cup grated asiago (or romano) cheese</li>
</ul>

<p>[All of this should be done UNCOVERED, on high.]</p>

<p>Put 2 T butter and 2 T olive oil in 2" deep 8-10" quiche dish. Microwave
for 3 minutes (on high).</p>

<p>Add 1 cup chopped onions and microwave for 4 minutes.</p>

<p>Stir.</p>

<p>Add 1 cup of arborio rice and microwave for 4 minutes.</p>

<p>Stir.</p>

<p>Add 3 cups of chicken broth and 1 container (8 oz.) of mushrooms.
Microwave for 9 minutes.</p>

<p>Stir.</p>

<p>Microwave 9 minutes.</p>

<p>My friend Dominus, who gave me this recipe, noted he often needed anther 9 minutes cooking time, as do I. I have (had) 600-Watt oven,</p>

<p>Add 1/2 cup grated romano, asiago, or similar cheese. Salt and pepper to
taste. Stir.</p>
]]>
        

    </content>
</entry>

</feed>
