Noble, an American Eatery, 2025 Sansom Street, Philadelphia

It was time for another dinner with Gabe, former co-worker and boon dining companion. Gabe suggested Noble because of his passion for cocktails; bartender Christian (he of the vests) is a friend. Going in, we knew we could get a good cocktail, even if everything else fell to pieces for us on their second day in business.

The three bartenders were not unduly busy while we were there. Both Christian and Melinda had time to chat with us. Gabe had a Manhattan and Last Word, and Christian came through for my "surprise me" request (I swear I don't do that to strangers) with a nice bourbon-based concoction. We had the cheese plate to keep me sober until dinner, and were rewarded with three luscious cheeses, a soft, semi-soft and hard. (And if I could read the photo I took on my iPhone, I'd tell you what they are, too.) Melinda warned us the hard cheese was "strong," and I would agree, but would not go so far as to say "stinky." This is not an Eppoises.

We could have eaten at the bar (the menu is distinct from the dining rooms), but decided to free up a couple stools and check out the dining room.

The dining room menu is divided into First, Second and Sweet. The bread was a rustic white or an olive loaf, served with house-made ricotta, better than any store-bought ricotta. Our waitress said Chef Steven Duane Cameron plans to serve a different spread each day.

I first picked the duck, but was so attracted by the sweetbreads, that I switched to the ladies' standard of two appetizers, adding in the Barnegat scallops. Gabe had the white asparagus with fried egg. The egg is really quickly boiled to set the outside two or three milimeters, peeled, breaded and deep fried. The center is warm, but certainly not set. It was delicious, and I hate eggs without cheese to mask the taste. The scallops were fresh and soft. The sweetbreads were the best (and only) I'd ever had; even on its second day, the kitchen was good enough for diners to try foods that are good only when cooked properly. Gabe had the perfectly-cooked chicken; I find chicken (and fish) impossible to cook — too often it goes from raw to rubbery in five seconds.

We split a bottle of Italian white, and had a blast choosing it with our waitress, who had an admirable grasp of pairing. The service overall was very friendly and attentive. On the one hand, the dining room was not busy at all; on the other it was only their second day of business, and the flow was very smooth.

Gabe finished with a cocktail and espresso (he was not impressed, but he roasts his own coffee beans). I had a glass of icewine and the bread pudding with gooseberries and white chocolate. I did not taste any white chocolate, but had drunk one very strong cocktail, half a bottle of wine, and was sipping a lovely glass of dessert wine.

Would I go back? Yes! I can't wait to see what the menu will be in the summer.