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January 14, 2007

It's all about the marketing

Whenever I see one of those top-ten, must-have lists, I first check whether the publisher has an affiliate deal to sell those items, then I check to see who's advertising that month.

This one from Chow.com is particularly irksome. The title is "Essentials for the Home Baker: Baking supplies that won't collect dust" which should be the titles of two different articles: one for what you really do need, the other unnecessary but extremely useful tools. Let's rebut, shall we?

Stand mixer: This line sums it up: "many professional chefs prefer the durable, though expensive, Hobart." Professional chefs need a stand mixer. My mother's stand mixer collected dust for decades, in preference to the quick to grab, easy to clean hand-held. Is a mixer essential for baking? Yes, unless you want or have the arms of a stevedore, but a hand-held is just as effective.

Non-stick mats: Essential? No. Useful and a better value for frequent bakers? Yes. A good value for the new baker? No; buy a roll of parchment paper instead.

Digital scale: Why? Did the country finally convert to metric? If you are baking from a professional cookbook (or like to do math in your head), sure, but if you are baking from The Joy of Cooking, stick with your measuring cups and spoons.

Grater/zester: Darn useful. So many recipes call for some sort of citrus zest, and a zester is very, very handy. A box grater will also zest, but its difficult to get all the zest out of the holes. I'll give them this one.

Pastry bag: "Handy for piping meringue, icing, and pate a choux ..." Handy is not the same as essential. I've decorated wedding cakes without a pastry bag (hello fresh flowers!), used spoons to form meringue cookies, and would rather buy an eclair than make one.

Candy thermometer: Essential only for frying or making candy. If you use an electric skillet to heat the oil for frying, not essential even then. If you don't deep-fry or make candy, well ...

French rolling pin: A rolling pin without handles, which is also my preference, but generations of woman baked just fine with American-style pins. The rolling pin is necessary, but the style just isn't.

Kitchen timer: This is a given. The digital version shown isn't necessary though.

Stick blender: "Use it for fruit sorbets, sauces, and soups." What part of that list is baking? This is just plain wrong.

Kitchen blowtorch: Are you making creme brulee? Do you have a broiler? How about a torch from Home Depot? Then you can fix that leaky pipe, too.

"We don't mean to imply that these items are all you'll ever need. In fact, we might add a pastry scraper, a set of prep bowls, and round cutters (for cookies, biscuits, and plating)." All those items are too inexpensive and plain to be on this list.

This is a list for, to be blunt, poseurs. The people in high school who told you your favorite bands aren't really punk, or hip-hop, or whatever. People too busy talking about whatever it was to actually do it. These people discovered cooking and baking, and are dead set on having the correct, professional-quality accessories.

Me? I'm going to bake the cake layers of a strawberry shortcake. Maybe I'll whisk the egg whites by hand.

January 04, 2007

Things I'm excited about

After a sickly and tiring December, I'm happy to find myself excited about a few things.

Baking: From My Home to Yours, by Dorie Greenspan. At first read, it looks like Greenspan has written a definitive tome for the home baker, from breakfast through dessert. After perusing it on the train, I had to stop at the grocery for sour cream and lemons for her lemon-poppy seed muffins. There's also a pear tart to try with leftover pears. It's a very personal book with lots of food pr0n.

What to Drink with What You Eat, by Andrew Dornenburg, Karen Page, and Michael Sofronski. This was my anniversary present to Jorj, and, as with any book gift he receives, he's had to pry it from my fingers to get a chance to read it. Orangette recommended it, and it looks like a great way to explore wine and spirits.

Lebkuchen. I successfully baked Renate's Pfefferkuchen, and am still hoping for another go at Elisenlebkuchen, now that I think I understand where my technique failed.

Peppermint white hot chocolate: The basic recipe seems solid, Penzey's supplied a big bag of dried mint (can't find a source for peppermint essence or oil), we've lot's of candy canes lying around: it's time to experiment.

Basic kitchen set up: I've written more, and might finally get this addition to Baking 101 up before the Spring.

XML, XSLT & CSS: If we ever find my copy of Jeny Tennison's Beginning XSLT 2.0 (really a reference for beginners through experts), I may be able to easily generate all manner of indexes for the site: by region or origin! Cookie-type! Dietary restriction! Meantime, I'm categorizing the recipes and tweaking the layout because I can.